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tips

1. Many tourists make it to Jingshan Park behind the Forbidden City for the magnificent view over the walled compound, but few know that if you come on Sunday you'll also find groups of up to 100 elderly singers gathering in circles for concert-standard practice of songs they have been singing for decades, including rousing Long March-era hits in praise of Mao Zedong. Park entrance 40p.

2. For the best selection of souvenirs, antiques and curios, take a taxi to Panjiayuan Antique Market (00 86 10 6775 2405). At weekends it's packed with hundreds of stalls selling wall-hangings, furniture and other trinkets. Bargain hard. You may also be tempted to buy jade jewellery but do research beforehand, learn to spot fakes and shop around. A real jade bangle is unlikely to be sold for less than £15. Come during the week if you hate crowds as the permanent shops around the sides are open every day.

3. Hotpot is Beijing's most social and arguably most tasty dining ritual. Sit around a bowl of bubbling stock and drop in thinly sliced lamb, noodles, and lettuce. Cook for a couple of minutes, then fish it out with your chopsticks and dip into sesame sauce. Hotpot restaurants abound, with prices from about £3 per person. Dong Lai Shun (00 86 10 6528 0932), on the fifth floor of the Beijing apm shopping mall in Wangfujing, has delicious fare, traditional charcoal-powered burners and costs about £9 per head.